The proposed British-Indian-Nepalese Services Expedition to attempt the 26,041-ft. Annapoorna II in Ne ap this summer began as an idea in the mind of Field Marshal Sir Gerald Templer, who later contacted Gen. K. S. Thimayya for Indian participation in the climb. It was decided to include Nepalese Army officers in the proposed expedition in collaboration with Gen. Toran Shamsher Jang Bahadur Rana, Commander-in-Chief of the Nepalese Army.
With a view to furthering Commonwealth and Nepalese inter-Services co-operation, Annapoorna II, the third highest unclimbed mountain in the world, was booked for 1960 with the co-operation of Lt-Gen. Sir Harold Williams. in India and Lt-. Col. J. O. M Roberts. in Nepal.
Annapoorna II, one of the three remaining unclimbed peaks above 28,000 feet, is the north-western summit of the Annapoorna Himalaya chain which stretches its gigantic range from Annapoorna I, through III and IV, to Annapoorna II, clearly visible from Pokhara in Central Nepal, west of the Everest region. It is situated in the Gandaki section of the Nepal Himalayas. Annapoorna I, the highest of the group, was climbed by the French, expedition under Maurice Herzog – in 1950, with tragic but triumphant consequences to the leader and another member of the party. H. W. Tilman was the first to attempt to climb this technically difficult mountain, in the company of Dr Charles Evans, a member of the successful Everest team in 1953, and Lt.-Col. Roberts. of the 2nd Gurkha Rifles and British Military Attache at Kathmandu. They failed to reach the summit by 1,500 feet.
Annapoorna IV was climbed in 1957 by a party under Dr Charles Evans, and had already been climbed by a German expedition in 1957. Annapoorna II, however, is so far unclimbed, and observers from Pokhara may get a glimpse of the first ascent if the present party succeeds in their intention of climbing the mountain from the north, even though the approach would be difficult.
The expenses of the joint expedition are being shared between Great Britain and India, proportionately.
The team will include six British, three Indian and two Nepalese officers. The expedition is being led by Lt.-Col Roberts (44). He is at present the Military Attache of the British Embassy in Kathmandu. He started his climbing in 1931 in the Alps and Great Britain and later in India. He has to his credit two visits to the Karakorams, including Masherbrun in 1938 and other pre-war Himalayan experience. Lately he has accompanied a number of major expeditions besides leading the Machapuchare expedition in 1957. Other British members are Maj. G. Lorimer (43) of the Gurkha Rifles, Capt. R. H. Grant (34), of the Royal Marines, Capt W. A. Grawshaw (28) of the SAS Regiment, Fl.-Lt. S. Ward (30) of the RAF and Lieut. & J. G. Bonnington (26) of the Royal Tank Regiment.
INDIAN CONTINGENT
The Indian members are Capt. Jagjit Singh (28), secretary of the recent set up Army Mountaineering Association, he started his job and since has spent all his summers in the Himalayas. He has participated in a number of major expeditions – Banderpunch, Kamet, Cho Oyu; Black Peak, besides the basic course at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Darjeeling. He also visited many passes in the Himalayas. The other officers are Capt. R. K. Malhotra (30) and Capt. M. A. Soares (32), the Medical Officer. Both have been out in the Himalayas before and have had courses at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute to their credit.
The Nepalese contingent consists of Capt. P. S. Rana and Lieut. G. S. Rans of the Nepal Army. The Sherpa team of nine is being led by the veteran Sirdar Dawa Tenzing, Lance-Corp. Ang Nyima of the Gurkha Rifles, who carried loads to the top camp as a Sherpa on the 1953 Everest Expedition will also take part in the assault on Annapoorna II.
Though all the members of the expedition gather on February 25 at Kathmandu, the base camp will be established only by the middle of March, with acclimatization and preparation and stocking of higher camps proceeding till May, when the attempt to scale the top will be finally made.
The expedition will also produce a colour film of the assault.
Since the inception of the Army Mountaineering Association, this is the first major expedition sponsored by it. It was started to coordinate the mountaineering activities of Army others. Its intention was to encourage this line healthy sport by providing advice and assistance to those wishing to take it up. Brig. D. B. Chopra is the first chairman of the Association.
SCHEDULE February 19.-Arrival Bombay I 5 S. “Calicia.” February 22.-Leave Bombay by air. February 25.-Arrival Kathmandu. Feb. 29 March 1.-Leave Kathmandu by air. ( March 1.-Arrival Pokhara by alr. March 2-11-Approach march to ‘B’ camp. March 12-31-Acclimatization up to 20,000 ft. April 1.20-Stock Camps 14V and rope steep sections. April 21-30Rest. May 1-20–The assault. May 21 June 5.-Rest and return. CAMPS Acclimatization base.-12,000 ft (Tree line and rest camp>. Base.-15,000 ft. Camp I.-17,000 ft. Camp II.-10,000 ft. Camp III.-21,000 ft. (Dome). Camp IV.-23,000 ft. (below summit of A IV). Camp V.-23,500 ft. (over shoulder and down on to the A II ridge). Camp VI.-24,600 ft. (foot of final ridge to the summit).