Even if the newer brands do not have skin lightening products, not much has changed in reality. Dr Manasi Shirolikar, a consultant dermatologist based in Mumbai, says there is still a desire for whitening skin among her clients. But the term ‘whitening’ is not as commonly used nowadays, she says. “Patients often seek brighter or more evenly toned skin, particularly around wedding seasons. Those who are familiar with popular ‘whitening’ agents inquire about them. There is also a growing interest in ‘body brightening’, specifically areas such as knees, elbows, inner thighs, neck, and intimate regions. In such cases, I clarify that these variations in skin tone are natural and may not completely fade even with the use of creams, peels, or lasers,” she adds.
Are these brands promoting consumerism?
Despite their modern and more scientific approach to skincare, the newer brands are not devoid of criticism. Oftentimes, they draw flak for promoting consumerism by encouraging people to buy multiple products to achieve the perfect skin. If the high number of products were not enough, there are big, flashy sales runs that pressure people into buying what they might not need. Then there are the vigorous marketing campaigns by the brands as well as skincare influencers, who even offer recommendations on what to buy or skip.
Pragya, a 25-year-old PR consultant in Bengaluru, says the sheer number of products with varying specifications had left her confused and worried, wondering what would be best suited for her skin. “There is an ocean of products out there and everyone is promoting every product. If I were to go by social media reviews, especially from influencers, then every product is good! There is so much marketing for them and I was definitely confused on which ones I should pick,” she says. Pragya adds that she was eventually able to narrow down on products based on her skin type and the concerns she was looking to address.
Dr Manasi says most of her clients are overwhelmed by the variety of products in the market, which also causes them to jump between products when they do not see immediate effect. “Some patients have experimented with numerous products without witnessing results. In some cases, this has even harmed their skin barrier, leading to increased acne or pigmentation. Often, they impulsively purchase the latest trending products without considering their skin type or specific needs. But there are also individuals who feel inundated by the multitude of available products and find it challenging to navigate through the options,” she says.
At the same time, there are also products like gua shas, jade rollers, and sheet masks that promise quick benefits, but have little scientific backing to their effectiveness. Gua shas and jade rollers, which are quite expensive, might feel relaxing and help unwind after a long day but do little to tone the skin or improve jawlines. Similarly, sheet masks provide momentary benefits based on its active components, but nothing to help in the long run. Because sheet masks can be used only once, there are also concerns on how much it might be contributing to pollution. But these issues are seldom addressed by the marketing campaigns that promote them.
Are these brands setting unrealistic skin standards?
Some brands are also criticised for peddling the notion that using a slew of products will help people achieve that perfect, glossy, glass-like skin with no visible pores. With the availability of retinol based products, there has also been a spurring interest in ‘anti-ageing’ skincare. But this trend too has an unhealthy side to it, as it causes even natural processes like ageing to be perceived negatively. There is a developing pressure, especially on women, to do everything to avoid getting wrinkles and fine lines.
“I think pursuing any skin goal can be just as unhealthy as pursuing fairness if it’s taken overboard,” says Nainika. “When it becomes an obsession, people will start idealising the ‘glass skin’, which is unattainable and unrealistic.”